More about the cut of men's trousers
Most men tend to consider that the cut of trousers depends on fashion whims and fancies. In reality, the details in the cut of trousers change season after season and the whole basis of the cut is changed every 10 years. We all remember 70s Cloches, 80s big pleats and 90s narrow pants.
If we throw a careful look at the trousers of those men who do not let themselves to be influenced by the mood of the fashion industry, then we will find that they all have a certain type of pants - very individual, pursuant with personal proportions, not following the fashion dictate.
Critical for a good cut is the waist. Hip, outside leg, inside leg, the height of the man and his shoe size are also important. The last detail is very important, because the trousers should not cover the front third of the shoes.
Thin men with flat bellies don't wear trousers with forward pleats - or at most with a decorative one. Pleats ease sitting and hide in volume the content of the pockets. Traditionalists order it to their custom tailors. Its opposite is called reversed pleat.
Plump men should wear pants, which waist volume is proportional to his shoe number and over all height.
The waistband could be under, over or on the belly. The trousers with waistband over the belly are more comfortable - they don't slip and don't need suspenders.
The cuff... King Edward VII - the grandfather of prone to deliberate stylizations King Edward VIII - is considered its inventor. His was the idea - in the second half of XIX century - to order this kind of hemming as a protection from dirt and wetness.
We can see in pictures that all men from 1920s wear cuffed pants. Obviously, cuffs are already trendy. And much later it became fashionable to cuff your jeans. Cuffs fit every type of pants - they are suitable for a classic men's suit, sports jacket, blazer, but NEVER for a tailcoat, tuxedo, cutaway or a military uniform.
If you wear a double-breasted suit jacket, cuffed pants are obligate. Cuffs don't touch the shoes - they reveal part of the socks - recently a bigger one. Lately, big cuffs are very trendy, but short men should be careful with the proportions, because cuffed trousers make the man look even shorter.
Classic English pants cut is suitable for slim fit jackets - there are suspenders buttons on the inner side of the waistband.
The pockets of a nice trousers are well lined. The expensive ones are lined to the knees.
There is a huge difference between the British, Italian and US trousers, revealing their different mentality. UK prefers narrow and deep pants without pleats. Italians wear trousers, which elegantly highlight the hips and the backside - with one word - sexy. The Englishman aims for pleasantness and following the rules - here sex appeal is irrelevant. He wouldn't remove his jacket, so the area around the waist isn't so important. The Italian is vain and he will take his jacket off, will show his body shape and flirt. The American believes that the suit is a necessity, showing that he knows how is dressed a successful man. The password 'Dress for success' applies only to 'success' in work. Here women are fascinated by success itself and the cut of the trousers doesn't even matter...
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