Marras imagined a British-Sardinian gentleman, fond of hunting with hounds in the wild countryside, but driven by nostalgia and a sense of home. “His style is a mash-up of memories.” A feel of rustic elegance was threaded through the collection, which was focused on outerwear. Peacoats and parkas were patchworked from an array of tweeds, jacquards, corduroy velvets, tartans, and felted wools. Worn inside-out exposing soigne linings, they had oversize, protective proportions; and though they looked sporty and functional, they conveyed the typical Marras flair for eccentric practicality. The British-Sardinian nobleman in question was obviously fond of a dapper touch of tailoring. Indulging in thick, knitted robe de chambre and parading sumptuous brocade tuxedo jackets.
The Spring collection had a retro feel, with slightly oversize suits; worn with waistcoats and ruched shirts, they exuded a nostalgic elegance. Denim single-breasted jackets with 3-D appliques were tucked into roomy trousers, and allover floral prints had a feminine flair, in evidence on generous silk shirts or ensembles. Macrame patches were scattered on zippered bombers, fitted formal blazers, and safari jackets. As single pieces, they could add a poetic, gentle flair to the most streamlined masculine wardrobe—which is, of course, the antithesis of everything Antonio Marras stands for.
WHITE expands its geography within the Tortona Fashion District, with the hub in Tortona 31/Archiproducts and with the venue for special projects and events within Camera Italiana Buyer Moda, which add to the three already existing locations. The timing is extended to four days, in view of the fashion week, so as to converge all the sector’s initiatives in the same period, thanks to MISE. The record number of 532 exhibitors (368 from Italy and 164 from abroad, namely a 6,4% increase), goes to show the key role the trade-fair plays in the womenswear international scene. Ssheena is September’s Special Guest with an Urban Catwalk in the heart of Milan, while Efisio Rocco Marras is the Special Designer, with the new direction undertaken by I’M Isola Marras. Consolidated brands, international ones and cutting-edge labels are the event’s protagonists, comprising a rich calendar of events that has reached over 390 requests for entry, of which 134 from abroad.
Antonio Marras joins the growing number of designers taking up the theme of travel for spring-summer 2017. After an intimate presentation of his latest collection during Milan Fashion Week, the designer unveiled his lookbook for the season. Model Reid Rohling is the collection’s protagonist, lending it a boyish quality.
Reinterpreting timeless western styles, Marras placed it in a playful and fashion-friendly realm. A hodgepodge of prints and patterns referenced a southwestern motif. Old western symbols such as the apron or overalls were brought forth in trendy plaids. Denim and leather juxtaposed with fur decorated jackets as well as oversize knitwear. The outlaw was also allowed his opportunity to shine with modern rifts on the leather biker jacket and dangerously sharp suiting.