Antonio Marras Fall/Winter 2018-2019 collection
Marras imagined a British-Sardinian gentleman, fond of hunting with hounds in the wild countryside, but driven by nostalgia and a sense of home. “His style is a mash-up of memories.” A feel of rustic elegance was threaded through the collection, which was focused on outerwear. Peacoats and parkas were patchworked from an array of tweeds, jacquards, corduroy velvets, tartans, and felted wools. Worn inside-out exposing soigne linings, they had oversize, protective proportions; and though they looked sporty and functional, they conveyed the typical Marras flair for eccentric practicality. The British-Sardinian nobleman in question was obviously fond of a dapper touch of tailoring. Indulging in thick, knitted robe de chambre and parading sumptuous brocade tuxedo jackets.
This combination of intellectual input and practical experience provided him with solid foundations on which to build his first, eponymous collection. The key elements of his style were already clear to see: the focus on craft techniques; Sardinia as a source of inspiration that is never reduced to folkloristic kitsch; the recurring theme of the ligazzio rubio (which in the Sardinian language means a “red thread”), which becomes a fully-fledged hallmark of his style.
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