Berluti Fall/Winter 2016 collection - a minimalistic, casual collection
When Alessandro Sartori returned from a trip to Marfa, that incredible open-air museum in the Texan desert, he brought with him the inspiration for a minimalistic, casual collection. Wide, roomy cuts, flowing jerseys, colours scorched by the blazing sun. A winter collection that proves there are no seasons.
Alessandro Sartori was moving Berluti far away from the all-out colour explosion tailoring that dominated his summer show.
There were more overt nods to this newfound Western inspiration - most notable in the proliferation neckerchiefs and Aztec-style prints across shoes and leather goods courtesy of Brooklyn tattoo artist Scott Campbell - these colours were deployed across precise casual tailoring, all with a covetable twist.
Trousers were carrot shaped looser around the thigh with a pleat, blazers had a second buttonable double layer at the front to give the impression the wearer was sporting two jackets at once and shirts were cut with a sleeve hitting the elbow.
Rich olive and cream wools woven into an almost 3-d texture on rollnecks, cashmere patches on jackets and soft-yet-smart joggers slipped under looser, equally soft oversized jumpers and slouchy coats.
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