State of nature - Etro Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection

Like the 24-hour cycle of a day, the collection opened and closed with darkness. The opener was a high-hemmed jacket and wide straight pants in rugged, almost-black blue cotton above a black knit accented by another knit - this one raspberry - both hemmed with irregular castellations of moth eaten-ness. At collection’s end, a cluster of black looks were elevated both in fabrication and decoration—they included an all-black Hendrix-flavored hussar’s jacket - but they were still black.

Closer to nature, fluid, rather loose, with turtle neck jumpers, velvet trousers and zipped jackets. Lots of checks and tartans in autumnal colours for very masculine suits. Also animal patterns reinterpreted for coats that tie at the waist.To note: The cable knit, the edges as if cut with scissors and the textures worked with a 3D effect.

Colors: black, dark blue, maroon, raspberry, baby blue, gray, violet, petroleum, cobalt, military green, beige, dark olive green, fuchsia, yellow, cognac.

Materials: cashmere, mohair, jacquard fabric, silk wool, tweed, velvet, suede, nappa leather

The accents of the collection: turtlenecks, knitwear galore, jackets with frogs, bombers, military jackets with embroidery on the sleeves and cashmere coats.

Photos: fashionising.com