Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

The Fall/Winter 2019 collection serves as a meta take on Berluti itself: patina, the signature colouration of the maison’s classic leather shoes is illuminated in new light. Captivated by the old marble tables at which craftsmen hand-dye the patina of shoes in Berluti's manifattura in Ferrara, Kris Van Assche paints his collection in the multi-hued stains of their surfaces. A wealth of reds, yellows, blues and greens saturates garments in rich colour, no two the same. The dye-splattered marble is further interpreted in print on silk shirts and nylon bags structured in exotic leather.

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Interpreted in tailoring, the impression of patina is evoked in calfskin and jacquard suiting, expanding the artisanal core of Berluti into a broader identity. The silhouette is defined, the shoulder stated but never too controlled. It paves the way for an exuberant approach to dress where formal tailoring feature side-by-side with trousers native to motocross. The idea of recalling one material through another further materialises in a purple leather coat stained in the image of patina, a grey shearling coat reminiscent of astrakhan, or a sweater knitted from a thousand metres of multi-coloured leather strings, which reads like yarn.

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

A precise and methodical designer, Van Assche confidently stepped outside his comfort zone. He demonstrated a sure hand with tonal silhouettes, pairing a fire-engine red suit with a powdery fuchsia pink veal leather coat, and a glossy oxblood kangaroo fur coat with a chocolate leather hoodie and pants.

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection

Berluti Fall/Winter 2019-2020 collection


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Tags:Berluti, collection, fall, winter, 2019, suit, tailoring, fabrics, leather, prints, formal tailoring, yarn, trousers, jacket, garments, Kris Van Assche

About the Author

Boyana Ivanova

Boyana is following men`s trade fairs and exhibitions. She is also covering fashion industry news, best dressed section, lifestyle and trends.


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