VIEW Premium Selection Spring/Summer season 2024
The VIEW Premium Selection in Munich has successfully opened the Spring/Summer season 2024. In a tense market environment, the exhibiting weavers, producers and accessories manufacturers and their around 300 pre-collections positioned themselves with strong trend statements and solutionoriented new developments. Providing confidence and trend-setting answers in uncertain times was the overriding theme.
Munich, 1 December 2022: From robust natural materials in contrast to shimmer, glitter, stretch and mesh in a colour spectrum ranging from light natural tones and off-white to pastel, bright power colours and warm, reddish purple and brown tones to black: yesterday, Wednesday, the VIEW Premium Selection came to an end after two days at the MVG Museum in Munich. There, international producers kicked off the new season with their approximately 300 pre-collections and presented their new material developments and colours for Spring.Summer 2024 at the Preview Textile Show organised by Munich Fabric Start GmbH.
The focus was on materials that evoke emotions on both a visual and tactile level. For styles that range from super sexy, sheer and tight, to classical suit looks and extremely wide cuts, to workwear elements. "Whether it's fashion, design or gender, this season is about finding more optimism and harmony. In menswear, gender identity and sensuality meet boundless imagination and become an integral part; in womenswear, we confidently and uninhibitedly emphasise all facets of femininity. From glamour to easy going - it's all about expressing our personality and uniqueness. The trend is towards a casual attitude; sexiness becomes practical and is found either in workwear or in functional styles. The colour palette ranges from muted whites and greys to eye-catching, summery reds and rich pinks or bright yellows," confirms Karin Schmitz, Business Development Director of the Trendforecast Institute Peclers Paris at VIEW in Munich.
Numerous buyers, designers and product managers from European ready-to-wear manufacturers came to VIEW to find out about the latest trends at the earliest possible opportunity, including: ADIDAS | ALBERTO | AKRIS | BALDESSARINI | BALENCIAGA | BOGNER | C&A | CALVIN KLEIN | CINQUE | DRYKORN | ESCADA | HALLHUBER | HOLY FASHION GROUP | HUGO BOSS | JOOP | LALA BERLIN | LAGERFELD | LAURÈL | MAC | MARC CAIN | MARC O’POLO | RENÉ LEZARD | RIANI | SCHUMACHER | SPORTALM | STRELLSON
A time of upheaval
The fact that the market is in a state of upheaval and companies are facing major challenges and changes were topics in many conversations.
"There is great uncertainty in the market. The, let's call it 'political game', is not making it easy for European producers. Energy costs have increased nine to tenfold here in Slovenia. Politicians must finally find an overarching European solution to support companies," says Tomaz Bavec, Area Sales Manager, Tekstina. Ralf Laufenberg, Sales Manager of Yünsa, also notices that decisions are being made more in favour of price: "For almost every article we offer, we have had a sustainable alternative for about three years. However, in order to be able to maintain corner price ranges, many are opting for the cheaper offer at the moment. Nevertheless, I am convinced that sustainability will become the standard."
„The tension among the exhibiting companies was palpable - high energy costs are leading to price discussions and market shifts. Against this backdrop, it was all the more surprising how good the mood at the VIEW was in the end. The companies are succeeding in finding intelligent answers, that meet the challenges of the market."
Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director MUNICH FABRIC START
„To differentiate oneself, to create optimism with new developments and, above all, to move forward with new concepts - these were the answers for many. This is also true for us as a trade show organiser. With our new reVIEW and preVIEW concept, we are positioning ourselves anew and close to the market."
Frank Junker, Creative Director MUNICH FABRIC START
New haptics, optics and innovative further developments
The exhibiting producers' pre-collections clearly showed their intentions to create something fresh and surprising and to convince with new qualities and fabric developments. Water colours, tie-dye and blurred floral prints contrast with geometric prints with stripes, cubes and triangles. The more interesting and new the surfaces, the better: from grippy, structured, coated materials in contrast to delicate, transparent, net-like fabrics or smooth, shiny, ultra-light surfaces. "It's still too early in the season to say what topics the market is going for spring/summer 2024. We are very much focusing on geometric dessins as square tile prints or ethnic graphics interpreted in completely different ways. Watercolours, batik and big blurred floral prints are another important topic. Green, orange, purple and brown tones with neon colours as a highlight are already well discussed," says Mariangela Magri, Sales Manager, New Concept (TTG Textilagentur Thomas Geiger). Linen is also surprisingly in demand from the German market - in a mix with cotton, polyester or wool or as a monofibre. Stable or flowing soft - the typical linen look remains - but is also broken up by surprising effects.
"In addition to compact cotton items, we are focusing strongly on linen for the summer - mixed with cotton or other natural fibres. With this, for example, we are implementing new indigo-dyed jacquards in a denim look with a super-soft feel. With shiny finishes on cotton jacquards, we achieve shiny effects in a leather look," says Alessandra Schiera, Sales Manager, Destro (Sauer Textil Agency). In contrast to this many of the
collections present delicacy and transparency, innovatively interpreted. "We combine ancient techniques with new innovative technologies: silk crepe with pigment prints, tie-dyes with modern dyeing technology. Laser cuts and holes for transparency and sexiness, ultra-light ripstops interwoven with solid thick yarns, coated plisses, metallic and fotosensoric fabrics," says Matteo Ramundo, Sales Manager, Serates (Fuhrmann
New developments also focus on bio-based, recycled, biodegradable materials or even first circular concepts. They are becoming more and more an integral part of the collections. Accessories are, as always, the pioneers here with leather alternatives based on cactus, mycelium, pineapple, apple or olive seeds. Organic cotton and organic linen or Tencel are an integral part of the Spring.Summer 2024 collections.
Recycled polyester is more in demand than ever, confirms General Manager Andrea Ambrosini of Limonta, among others: "Recycled fabrics are more popular than ever, a development from which Limonta benefits. The first appointments with customers confirmed a high demand for nylons made of recycled polyester mixed with cotton and other fibres to create new and surprising looks and touches. Especially cotton feel, shiny, paper or rubberised effects are very important."
Next: MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE end of January
From 24 - 26 January 2023, the textile and fashion industry will come together at MOC Munich and at BLUEZONE and KEYHOUSE from 24 - 25 January 2023 at the Zenith Areal. Almost 800 currently confirmed exhibitors will show their colour and material trends over two or three days, embedded in showcases, experiences and a fringe programme of exclusive information about the upcoming trends, top-notch panels and the opportunity to network. A new concept is THE SOURCE STUDIO at MOC. The popularity of the events in January is great and reveals that Munich will once again become the global hub for the most important segments of the industry at the end of January.
More voices from exhibitors:
Bell & Thunder
„We can't do everything - but what we do, we do right, especially special knits and wovens made of synthetic or mixed fibres. As far as one can tell at this stage, it is mainly unusual, elaborate and sophisticated jacquards made from a wide variety of materials that will make a comeback in this sector.”
Myunsoo Seo, President, Bell & Thunder, Seoul
„Linings for spring/summer 2024 are one thing above all: fancy - with bright, fluorescent colours, microstructures and prints; not only made from viscose, but from new material compositions such as recycled polyester with organic cotton.“
Luca Ronzi, Sales Manager, Cervotessile (Klaas & Hesse Textilagentur)
„We achieve structure and volume through embossing. The focus is on geometric designs that are somehow different: triangles, cubes, tie-dyes, stripes with 3D effect. The leaf is the new flower. In the area of floral patterns, we show unevenly placed floral embroideries on transparent, delicate net-like fabrics. Shine comes into play via sequins, in stripes on stripes or with a geographical floral pattern on fine linen organza.“
Alexandra Bosch, Area Manager, Gratacós (Agentur Fuhrmann)
„We have redesigned organic cotton for the summer: in a blend with linen, soft and especially structured. Totally modern, new concepts are emerging. These fabrics are no longer compact and less stretch. In terms of colour, rust and terracotta tones in combination with strong blues and neon accents are particularly important. We live in a world where everyone offers everything. That makes it all the more important to make
a difference. The key for us as a wool fibre and yarn manufacturer is sustainability.“
Emiliano Bertoli, Sales Manager, Manteco
„People are looking for more sustainable alternatives. Together with the Japanese manufacturers we represent, we can help satisfy this desire by adapting the composition of fabrics made from recycled or organically grown natural fibres. The result of this: a whole new feeling in finishing and hand feel."
Toshihiko Kanatani, Senior Sales Representative, Stylem, Osaka
„The trend towards casual, comfortable and sporty fashion is unstoppable and has now also established itself in HAKA. With the new yarns "SOLOTEX® and DELTA® developed by Teijin, we are able to offer a wide range of different sporty, light, packable and technical polyester articles with a bit of function. A trend that is pervasive: All well-known brands want to use only predominantly environmentally friendly materials. This trend and the desire for green stories also influences the development of new fabrics: fine nylons that feel like cotton or fabrics with a BASF fibre obtained from discarded car tyres. The more sporty a collection is, the more it is about a mix of technological and aesthetic innovation - weight is a big topic as well, as are rip-stops and transparency.“
Roland Oberstein, Vice President, Teijin Frontier Europe GmbH, Hamburg
„We have had cactus-based labels in our collection for two years now. Our new labels made of mushroom leather can be seen for the first time at VIEW. We have the exclusive patent for Mylo - Mycelium is THE rising material among leather alternatives. We have also launched brand new labels made of bamboo with biopolyuretan. Bamboo and Mycelium labels with water-soluble inks dried with UV light - that's how we
Nicoló Gatti, Sales Executive, Vivolo (Klaas & Hesse Textilagentur)
„All our accessories are certified. Silicone labels made from olive stone powder are our novelty. Whether cactus, pineapple, organic cotton with potato flour or now olive stones - in order to develop solutions that are sustainable and commercially successful at the same time, you have to try out many things and constantly develop them further. At the moment, interest is particularly high in sustainable packaging solutions for the ecommerce to get rid of plastic. Paptic from Finland is a new water-repellent solution made of wood fibres - biobased, recyclable, reusable and biodegradable. We have had great success with this.“
Charlotte Bøgeren, CEO, We Nordic
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