Milano Unica: Spring/Summer 2018 trends
The pleasure of travel, the dream to bring together different cultures, the game of connecting past and present and the desire to rediscover historical figures of aesthetic and cultural importance: these are the cornerstones on which Milano Unica’s new trends for next Spring-Summer 2018 have been based.
The result are three basic themes, that are the combination between a historical character and a real but yet idealized place, both for its glorious past and its everlasting collective imagination value.
In this perfect game, we place Nefertiti, legendary Queen of Egypt, in Ibiza, the very heart of the international social scene, while the Russian artist Kazimir Malevich is relayed in Sorrento’s southern sunshine. And lastly, Carlo Mollino, architect from Turin, has been flown to Tehran following the path of Iranian culture.
Daring combinations make our eyes widen in astonishment; but these associations however are not at all light hearted. Because we are convinced that modernity is not an abstract concept but on the contrary is all that can be born from an unusual, even extreme, crossover of languages, experiences, cultures and people coming from all space and time latitudes. Convinced that only a linguistic and visual contamination can push us towards new ways of interpreting the manufacturing tradition.
NEFERTITI IN IBIZA
This theme is a paean to beauty, careless youth and the power of Nature. Indeed Nefertiti represents the ideal of timeless beauty and the embodiment of love and her spiritual intensity have been brought to Balearic Islands, on the Isle of Ibiza, a fragrant and generous land, known as the one of the Mediterranean pearls, a world heritage site, protected by Unesco, where trends are born, rituals take place and where above all young people can free both body and mind with magnificent effect. This theme is thus a recall to floral d?cor, Egyptian preciousness, kaftans, golden colours and the interior decorations of Ibizan houses.
The sands of Ibiza and of the dunes, the mummies balm smelling bandages and thickly woven linens of typical Ibizan dress. As well as Egyptian papyrus and silks so fine they resemble vellum paper.
Many parallels can be drawn between the two worlds in terms of fabric, enhanced by the sophisticated nature of the decorative elements.
Overprinted fabrics in bas-relief
Vertical and horizontal double mesh
Plisse effect obtained on the loom
Pleated tulle enriched with prints
Silk with papyrus paper effect
Uneven reliefs created on the loom
Gauze overlaid on jacquard giving a cave painting type effect
Golden ‘fil coupe’ printed with golden pigments
Gold veined crispy silks
Giant prints with brush strokes hand painted effects
Matt and shiny taping
Printed suede with transparent gold lacquers lined with gold
Pale gold silk lined with ornamental patterns
Silk-viscose rush matting
Precious silk with stencilling allusions
Accessories are extremely decorated and revisited in a techno-pop version to minimize opulence and the preciousness of fabrics:
Leather techno collar, lacquered and lasered, stylised patterns enriched with iridescent materials
Patches of various polyurethane films, of fabrics and other materials
Central decorative patterns with chain and stone inserts which form geometrical drawings
Cotton and linen bases for ribbon fringes and weaves, made precious with gold application
Plisses with net golden finish effect
Egyptian inspired decorative elements
KAZIMIR MALEVICH IN SORRENTO
This is the theme in which colour and geometry prevail. The works of the Russian artist Kazimir Malevich, who introduced the most radical of the century’s historical avantguard movement, the Suprematism, mix up with the patterns of Sorrento’s tiles and ceramics. The dynamism of the architectural forms, so beloved and studied by Malevich, is combined with the design of Sorrento's houses decorations. And the high expressiveness of Russian culture meets the cosmopolitanism of Sorrento's jet set.
Three dimensional geometries, colours reconstructing depth, dynamic perspectives, graphics alternating with decor, natural elements stylized in an abstract mood. Together these elements have meaning: Sorrento as seen by Malevich and vice versa.
Hand printed silk canvas
Graphic games playing in freedom
Impermeable, soft touch cotton
Textured micro open weave stretch cotton
Three-chromes originating from thermo applications and seemingly incidental techno juxtapositions and graphic effects
Giant sketches on jersey giving a three dimensional effect
Thick striped cotton jersey in alternating colours
Graphic abstractism with mixed material
Stripe and pinstripe patterns
Mix of transparencies and lacquers
Outlined pinstripes alternating with polka dots
‘Double face’ organza
‘Fil coupe’ on organza
Generous use of ribbon and lines of varying dimensions alternate with extremely colourful appliques for a repertoire of high impact accessories:
Gros-grain ribbon compositions heat sealed with polyurethane
Colour blocks made with labels and zippers
Buttons inspired by Sorrentine ceramics
Decorations resulting from games with etching
Overlapping laser drawings which recall both majolica and Malevich’s abstract vision
CARLO MOLLINO IN TEHRAN
This is the theme of the osmosis between East and West, between the impudent Persian beauty and Grandeur and the Savoyan authoritativeness. Teheran and Turin. The Shah and the architect. Yet another cultural crossover, a further theme dedicated to the connection between worlds on opposite poles in tune with both osmosis in thought patterns and contemporary creativity.
On one side mosaics on the other furniture, all single pieces, with rounded forms and floral decorations. In this theme Persian church rose windows seem to be conversing with the detailed decorational preciousness of Mollino’s furniture, his beloved organic forms hold vivid references to the naturalistic elements of Persian rugs, not to mention the seductive royal atmospheres of Turin and those of the Shah.
Jewellery sapphire mixed with the turquoises of church windows. Warm woody colours selected by Mollino, and Pompeian reds from prayer mats. Oriental preciousness mixed with Italian taste.
Jacquard embellished by gold thread composing geometrical designs
Flakes of metallic leather offer a 3D effect to silk printed with micro floral patterns
Leather lasered rose window shapes for a three dimensional effect
Cottons printed with designs inspired by oriental majolica
Print patches on shirt cotton
Jacquards with cyclical sketching
Jacquards with lace effect
Pigmented and overprinted fabric
Sophisticated jacquard with bas-relief threading
Precious bas-relief embroidered lace
Hand knotted silk paper with mosaic prints
Delicate jacquard inspired by Hammam interiors
Tie silks with lace rose window shapes
Maxi cellular designs for cotton lace
Double cotton with inserts to create bas-relief patterns
Maxi rush matting cotton
Jersey with organic patterns 3D effect
Rich and strongly decorative, the accessory becomes a modern revisitation of oriental ornaments in embroidery and appliques whilst, for issues concerning geometry and design the attention is focused on Mollino’s winding curves:
Decorated lace and macram?
Embroidery and appliques
Engraving for buttons and zippers
Embroidered ribbons and edges
Macram? and metallic appliques
TREND AND NEUTRALS COLOURS
For Spring-Summer 2018, in addition to the main trend colours of reference, we have also selected a range of neutral colours which work well both with single themed shades or alone, as unique nuances for the creation of fabrics or accessories.
Hits: 1969 | Leave a comment
We are looking for men's suit tailors, fashion designers, managers, fashion consultants who want to share their knowledge and tips in an article or video and contribute to the site! Please email us at email@example.com Don't miss the opportunity as this will be a free advertisement for yourself and your menswear brand!
About the Author
More Articles from this author